In the remote village of Khinaliq, nestled in the mountains of northern Azerbaijan, a group of hikers gathered around an ever-burning fire fueled by methane gas escaping from the ground. The fire, housed in an iron pot filled with river water, held a sacred status for the hikers as it provided warmth on a cold night and heated their breakfast tea. This fire, with its formless presence, served as a spiritual preparation for their upcoming climb to the peak of Mount Aliyev.
To reach the trailhead near the ateshgah (fire temple), the hikers embarked on a one-hour journey in a Soviet GAZ truck from Khinaliq, a village perched 2,350m in the Greater Caucasus mountains. The surrounding Shahdag National Park, the largest national park in the Southern Caucasus, features alpine meadows and towering peaks, serving as Azerbaijan’s northern border with Russia.
The region’s rugged terrain and unpredictable climate have historically kept humans at a distance. However, the allure of the ever-burning flames and their historical significance have drawn explorers to the rocky highlands. Azerbaijan, known as “the land of fire,” has a rich history of fire-related cultural and mythological associations. Marco Polo, during his visit to the Eastern Caucasus in the 13th century, marveled at the region’s “oil fountains,” highlighting Azerbaijan’s abundant oil and natural gas resources.
Fire holds a central place in Azerbaijani culture and mythology, dating back to the era of Zoroastrianism, one of the world’s oldest monotheistic religions. In Zoroastrianism, fire represents the light, wisdom, and truth of the one God, Ahura Mazda. It serves as a sacred bridge between the spiritual and physical realms, allowing believers to connect with God and seek protection from dark forces. Fire temples, like the one near Khinaliq, were built to maintain these sacred flames for devout communities. The name “Azerbaijan” is believed by some scholars to derive from the combination of the Farsi words “azar” (fire) and “baygan” (protector).
While the majority of Azerbaijanis today identify as Muslims, the influence of Zoroastrianism is still present in the culture and traditions of the country. Nowruz, the Persian New Year celebration, is one such tradition shaped by Zoroastrian folklore. Azerbaijanis celebrate Nowruz by making fires in the yard and preparing specific sweets symbolizing the stages of nature’s awakening in spring. The concept of renewal and reverence for nature inherent in Zoroastrianism remains strong in modern-day Azerbaijan.
Nowruz falls on March 21, but the celebration in Azerbaijan extends for four weeks preceding the holiday. Each of the four Tuesdays leading up to Nowruz represents one of the four elements – water, fire, wind, and earth. People partake in festivities, including dancing, singing, and playing games, to welcome the new year.
Fire plays a vital role during Nowruz and other occasions in Azerbaijan. Bonfires are ignited throughout the country, and people jump over them, symbolizing leaving behind misfortunes and embracing a fresh start in the new year. This ancient tradition reflects the Zoroastrian belief in the power of fire for renewal and personal transformation.
As the hikers in Khinaliq prepared to embark on their snowy climb, the ever-burning fire served as a reminder of the enduring significance of fire in Azerbaijani culture, connecting them to the rich heritage of the “land of fire.”